There is a lot of controversy with dog owners over which dog food is better. Some people have no idea what makes a good dog food. They buy the most expensive brand because they assume it must be a top quality dog food. Others feel that dog food is dog food and if their dog seems to be healthy then they see no reason to spend the extra money on a premium brand.
Before we look at dog food costs, let's begin with what makes a good dog food. A top quality dog food depends on the quality of ingredients and the nutritional power of the food. It should offer a balanced diet and contain superior sources of protein as one of the first two ingredients. This can include whole fresh meats or single-source meat meal like chicken meal (rather than poultry meal). A top dog food would also contain whole, unprocessed grains plus vegetables and even fruits. It would have few fillers such as corn, soy, brewer's rice and wheat bran. It would use natural preservatives instead of chemicals like propylene glycol and BHT or BHT.
Supermarket Dog Foods vs. Premium Brands: Which is a Better Value for the Money?
Some people experience sticker shock when they compare the price of a premium dog food with an economy brand. Many dog foods found in supermarkets are so-called economy brands, which, surprisingly, end up costing more to feed your dog than top rated premium dog foods. Why? Because "economy" dog foods tend to be lower in nutrients than premium foods and you have to feed your dog more to get the same nutritional punch of a more expensive premium brand. For example, the recommended feeding instructions for one supermarket brand say to feed approximately 6 cups a day for a 35-50 lb dog. The label on an ultra-premium dog food recommends about 1 ¾ to 2 cups per day. That's around three times as much of the standard dog food vs. the premium food. So now which costs less? And just think about the extra poop you will have to scoop if you're feeding your dog six cups a day! Some lower end dog food manufacturers have even reduced the recommended feeding amount to make their food look more economical.
Lower end dog foods usually contain corn meal as one of the main ingredients (an acceptable protein source, but may cause allergies in some dogs), plus chicken or animal byproducts or rendered meat/poultry. Byproducts are ground, rendered, pieces of the carcasses of slaughtered animals or poultry and can include heads, feet, necks, and viscera. These are less nutritious but are often used in lower-quality dog foods because they are much cheaper than whole turkey, chicken, or meat. Rendered is often referred to as "byproducts meal" and it means the cooked and processed remains of the leftovers in meat and poultry processing. Yuck!
What Should You Look for in a Dog Food?
Learn how to read the label. Better dog foods are made from whole product, such as chicken, turkey, and lamb. Also check the label to see if the protein source is free of hormones, antibiotics, and pesticides. Chicken fat is a very good source of Nicoline acid, which helps makes dogs' coats healthy and shiny. Also check the fiber content. Three to four percent fiber is recommended for solid stools. Avoid dog foods that have rendered meats, poultry or fats, animal byproducts, added growth hormones, brain or spinal tissue, artificial colors, artificial flavors, preservatives, and for dogs that may have allergies, avoid corn, soy, wheat, and eggs.
So what About the Cost?
There are many excellent dog foods on the market, and a variety of prices. Buying a top quality dog food doesn't necessarily mean you will be paying the most; understanding the ingredients list and getting value for your money is what counts.
Perhaps one of the most persistently complained of dog behavior problem is barking. Fortunately, being able to successfully stop dog barking is, however, something that most owners should be able to accomplish provided they properly understand the underlying causes of this particular type of dog behavior problem, and implement strategies to address them...
Firstly, it's important not to forget that dogs are supposed to bark. It's an inherent dynamic of their psyche, it's one of the ways they communicate. Consider this, if someone was entering your back yard with a view to burgling your home, you'd want your dog to bark, right?
However, if your dog barks to a degree which far exceeds need or duty, it is possible to stop dog barking by consistent conditioning, thereby eliminating the unnecessary and often frustrating noise (the part driving you and your neighbors increasingly nuts). By doing so, you'll improve your relationship with your pet by being prepared to listen and respond appropriately when your dogs barking response is invoked (not to mention improving your relationship with those suffering needlessly next door). Your goal is to be able to fulfill the dual role of master, and best friend.
Fear Based Barking
Most dog barking problems develop during 6-8 months of age, during a period where your dog's barking is more likely to be fear based than protective. The problem is exacerbated in dogs with limited socialization. The less confident your dog, the more likely they are to be prone to excessive barking. Positive experiences and reinforcement of your dogs level of confidence can have dramatic effects on their levels of barking, particularly during this phase of their development.
Whether your dog is young or older, it is essential that problem or fear based barking is not reinforced by your response to it. You want your dog to feel confident. When your dog displays uneasy behavior (such as shackles risen) it's often our natural reaction to try to reassure. We might pat them, and tell them ok, but frequently in doing so we communicate with a slightly concerned tone. We of course are concerned...we want our dog to be calm! But to our dog, they interpret this as us reinforcing that there is something to be fearful of. The best response is to simply and confidently tell your dog there's nothing wrong. Adopt an 'everything is great' attitude, and your dog will follow.
Assertive/Alert Barking
Beyond fear based barking is your dogs need to assert themselves as being 'on alert'. Frequently this results in them spending an hour barking like crazy at the garden hose rather than achieving any purposeful 'watchdog' role. This too can be curbed by understanding why it is that your dog is acting this way.
Your dog understands that its their duty to alert their owners. What they often need to have reinforced is that whilst their job is to alert their owners, barring extreme circumstances, they are then supposed to hand responsibility to responding to any perceived threat over to you. That is to say, you're the leader, your dog is part of your pack, and you must take responsibility for that dominance.
How do we achieve this? Firstly, give credence to your dogs barking. Take a look why they might be creating a fuss. Don't just tell your dog to be quiet from inside the kitchen, head on out and see what's the cause. It might be a neighbour, it might be the mailman (it really might just be the garden hose). But whatever it is, do your part and see. If your dog persists with barking once their role is fulfilled however, then its not only appropriate but essential that you let them know they are overstepping the line. You're the master. Once your dog has seen you have assessed the situation, then you should confidently and clearly reprimand them for continuing to bark.
Take it one step further. Call your dog over, and with your sitting next to you take hold of their collar with one hand. With your other hand, carefully but firmly place your left hand over your dogs muzzle and press down (be sure the pressure is not uncomfortable). At the same time, issue a single command in a calm but confident voice, such as "Quiet". Don't yell at your dog. They will hear this as similar to a bark and it only serves to reinforce that there is something worth barking at. Its imperative to remember that dog's don't communicate the same way we do. By commanding them to be quiet calmly and confidently, together with imobilising your dogs head with your hand, you are exerting your dominance in a manner similar to that which might be displayed by a normal dog pack leader when silencing a noisy dog. By doing this anywhere up to a dozen times, your dog will begin to associate the command "Quiet" with the need to stop barking.
You can in fact set up this conditioning without having to wait for situational barking. Find something that triggers your dogs warning barking. It might be knocking on the door for example. After one or two barks, stop knocking and do something to get their attention. As soon as their attention is drawn to you and they stop barking, say "Quiet" or whichever command you have selected, and reward your dog. Positive reinforcement when your dog stops barking can be assisted by aids like food treats. Apply this when first training your dog with this technique, and gradually decrease the use of food treats. You should aim to get to the stage where you can simply pat your dog or say "good dog" or a like comment. Its important to apply this technique only when your dogs barking is unnecessary. As stated earlier, there will be situations where you want your dog to bark, and the bark response is not something you may want to extinguish completely.
Dog Barking Triggers
If you can't get your dog to stop barking at anything and everything, attempt to eliminate some of the triggers which set off the dog barking. This might be as simple as removing their exposure to the trigger. For example, put them in their enclosure if a neighbor is expected. Say your dog guards the north side of your fence from the neighbor's dog it might seem obvious but remove your dogs access to his post. With the absence of temptation comes salvation.
If outright isolation from a trigger is not possible, before a barking trigger event occurs (such as the mailman arriving) call your dog and instruct it to sit. Provide your dog with praise and reinforcement for compliance. Better yet, eliminate the trigger as being perceived as a potential threat. Introduce them to the neighbor or mailman, let them give your dog a treat. If necessary, have them start off from afar, and reassure your dog calmly and confidently as they approach. Let them throw treats to your dog, and as they get closer, hand them directly. Engendering loyalty in dogs with your encouragement to others, or by way of controlled exposure to something causing your dog concern, is a great way to eliminate alarm.
Attention Seeking
If you can't stop dog barking because your dog wants attention, this requires some more interventionist methods, and the appreciation that your own actions may at some stage have contributed to the problem. Attention seeking barking is a learned response. Like children, dogs find out what works, or what they can get away with, and repeat it. If you let your dog into the house whenever he barks, whenever he wants to get in he'll bark. If you try and ignore them, the barking will become more persistent, often to the point of extreme frustration. Worse still, if you ultimately accede to their demands (say at 3am, out of desperation) it only reinforces that persistence results in success. Instead, try waiting for a point where they stop barking, then let them in. For particularly determined barkers, try coupling this with a deterrent, such as a squirt bottle, for more rapid results. Diverting this type of barking behavior may take more time, and success may be gradual, but it is achievable.
Boredom Dog Barking
If your dog is barking because they are bored, then your attention to their needs may be the simplest and fastest solution. There are a mass of dog related products on the market which are relatively inexpensive. Chew toys, balls, and a range of other toys can keep your friend occupied until you get home to give them their much needed exercise. Try altering their routine and give them plenty of options to keep them quiet.
Frequently, being able to isolate your dogs anxieties, needs or motivations is key to achieving that which you both want, which in your case is a happy (and quiet) pet.
By Alex Kenwright
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com
The amount of meat, originally used in dry dog food, has been greatly reduced over the last decade and has been replaced with cheap and potentially harmful cereal and grain products by many lower quality dog food companies. Nutritionally, how each individual dog processes the nutrients that are in these products greatly depends on how easy to digest each of the particular grains may be.
The actual amount of nutrients your dog may get specifically depends on what the amount and type of filler in the brand you are feeding a dog. Dogs can usually absorb almost all of the carbohydrates in certain grains, such as white rice, but cannot digest many of the others like peanut shells.
As much as twenty percent of the nutritional value of other grains, such as oats, beans and wheat can be poor or lost completely. The nutritional value of corn and potatoes is also much less than that of rice. And some other ingredients used as filler in dry dog food such as, peanut shells, cotton hulls, feathers, etc. have absolutely no nutritional value whatsoever, and are only used to hold the dry dog food nuggets together or just to make your dog feel full! These fillers can be harmful to your dog and yet, there are many unscrupulous manufacturers who use them, anyway.
Because grain is necessary to hold the nuggets of dry dog food together, it needs to equal at least fifty percent of the total ingredients. If you are feeding a dog these foods every day, you could be giving him or her a hundred percent more grain than canines normally eat in the wild or that they actually need.
If you check the labels on cheap dry dog food bags, you'll find two of the top three ingredients listed are usually some kind of grain product... ground corn, corn gluten meal, brewers rice, beet pulp, feathers and cotton hulls are some of the most frequently used. Why? Because these are much less expensive, "cheaper" ingredients than meat.
There was a huge recall by Nature's Recipe in 1995 (they pulled thousands of tons of dry dog food off of the shelves) which caused them to lose approximately twenty million dollars. This all came about when consumers that complained their dogs were vomiting and had loss of appetite. A fungus that produced vomitoxin (a toxic substance produced by mold) was found to have contaminated the wheat in that brand.
Although it causes vomiting, loss of appetite, diarrhea, etc., vomit-toxin is milder than most toxins. The more dangerous toxins can cause weight loss, liver damage, lameness, and even death, as seen in the Duane case. What happened next should give all dog care givers cause to pause and wonder what's happening with our so called "Watch Dogs" in the government agencies.
Then again, in 1999, another fungal toxin was found that killed 25 dogs. This caused the recall of dry dog food made by Duane Pet Care (maker of Ol Roy, Walmart's brand, plus 53 other brands).
The incident with Nature's Recipe prompted the FDA to get involved out of concern, but for only the human population and not the more than 250 dogs who got sick. It was concluded that the discovery of vomit-toxin in Nature's Recipe wasn't much of a threat to the "human" population because "the grain that would go into pet food is not a high quality grain". What! So does that mean manufacturers have a green light to poison our dogs with poor quality or contaminated ingredients?
Dog food manufacturers also use soy as a protein for energy and to add bulk to the food so that when a dog eats a product containing soy it will feel more satisfied. Some dogs do well with soy while others experience gas. Soy is also used as a source of protein in vegetarian dog foods.
And now for corn... did you know corn kills dogs? Most of the dry brands on store shelves is loaded with corn, a cheap filler. This is not the same corn humans eat, it's feed grade corn (the kind fed to cattle), or cheap feed corn remnants. Even corn meal dust swept up from the mill factory floor, counts as "corn" to be used in our dog's food. This same corn may even have been condemned for human consumption, but there are no limits to the amount pesticide contamination set for our pets' foods.
If that weren't bad enough, corn (which gives us both high fructose corn syrup and corn oil) is fattening. Why are so many dogs obese and suffer from diabetes...I wonder if it has anything to do with corn being used as filler in so many dry dog foods?
Dog food industry critics observe that many of the ingredients used as reactants -- ingredients such as corn syrup and corn gluten meal which bind water to prevent oxidation-- also bind the water in such a way that the food actually sticks to the colon and may cause blockage. The blockage of the colon may cause an increased risk of cancer of the colon or rectum.
The presence of corn products in dry dog food - particularly if they are high on the list of ingredients - may indicate that corn has been used instead of a more expensive alternative. About 25% of the corn produced in the U.S. today is genetically modified. Dogs have a difficult time digesting corn.
Corn gluten meal in dog food is a concentrated source of protein that can be substituted for costlier animal protein. In many bargain brands, corn gluten meal provides a large proportion or even the total amount of protein listed in the food label rather than more digestible forms of protein such as meat.
Then there's wheat...wheat is a main ingredient in many dry dog foods. The wheat that's used in these products we're feeding a dog is not what's used in our breads, cakes, cereals, etc. It's usually the "tail of the mill" (that's a clever way of saying the sweepings of leftovers on the floor after everything else in the mill has been processed), wheat germ meal...this is referred to as "middling and shorts" (same thing as "tail of the mill"...just another way of saying it).
So, lets take a look at what we now know so far, about what goes into those attractively designed and cleverly named bags on store shelves...first there's the diseased and toxic meats (I told you about that in my previous articles), converted (rendered) so it can be legally used in our dog foods. Now, let's see...what else is there that's very, very cheap?
Ahh yes, there's livestock-grade grain (that's the one the FDA showed no concern about with the contamination found in dog food), which is normally the main ingredient the manufacturers use...not because dogs need it in large amounts, but because it's the cheapest food around and can add bulk. But, there are even cheaper ingredients used, such as...waste dust, floor sweepings, husks, rejects from the screening process for flour, straw, sand, dirt, etc. How perfect for our dog's daily diet! Yuck!
Now, if they were to call this stuff scraps, no one would buy it so they call it "middling" (isn't that a cute name!), customers will never know what it really is. Then there's ground up bones, heads, feet, feathers, etc., they name that "poultry meal, fish meal, etc."...doesn't that sound much better than scraps?
What's also interesting is that "livestock grade" really means manufacturers do not need to be at all concerned with "allowable" levels of pesticides left in the grains it uses as fillers in our dog's food. Because of this loophole manufacturers can legally use any of these "waste grains" in our dog's food.
OK, so lets see what other lovely ingredients can also be used as fillers for feeding our dogs:
Beet pulp... the dried residue from sugar beet... this is mostly all sugar. This can be a good source of fiber but has been known to clog the intestinal villus.
Soybean meal... a product made by grinding the flakes that remain after removing oil from the soybeans. Soy is linked to a great deal of allergies that can cause sneezing, swelling, itching, prophylactic shock and death.
Powdered cellulose... made by processing a pulp from fibrous plant material... otherwise known as "sawdust".
Sugar foods, by-products from grinding and mixing inedible portions of candy, dry packaged drinks, dried gelatin mixes, etc...and other similar foods that are primarily made of sugar.
Ground almond and peanut shells... a source of fiber with zero nutritional value.
Many dog food manufacturers add such fillers, with no nutritional value, in order to decrease the cost of producing the food, offset rising costs involved in manufacturing, marketing, shipping, etc., and so that they can keep the selling price low.
It's quite ironic that in some cases, unnecessary filler ingredients have become toxic and have led to huge recalls and ultimately massive costs to those companies. A couple of recent cases are, in 2006 the antitoxin on corn caused the Diamond Pet Food Recall, and in 2007 melamine on wheat gluten and rice gluten fillers caused the Menu Foods Pet Food Recall (which included Hill's, Royal Canine, Natural Balance, Iam's, Eukanuba, Purina, Nitro Brands, etc.).
Unfortunately however, the use of fillers in lower grade commercial dog food still continues even after all of these recalls. What the recalls did do is make caregivers aware of this issue and of the health hazard these cheap fillers can pose to our beloved dogs. It's also heartening to note that a great many caregivers are now paying special attention to learning about and reading dog food labels and understanding just what may be in those attractive bags on store shelves.
Yet there are many cheap "fillers" that are not included in the labeling and the possible use of them needs to be recognized. With the continued use of low grade foods your dog can still be ingesting such things as: cereal byproducts, cottonseed hulls, citrus pulp, straw, corncobs, feathers, soy, sawdust, etc.
Many of these cheap fillers are added to the food instead of a high grade filler like rice. The use of these have been known to be harmful to a dog's intestines. These cheap fillers have also been known to cause more serious health problems in puppies, senior dogs or dogs that have a diminished capacity to fight off disease. Even in light of this manufacturers will continue to add dangerous ingredients to our pet's foods in order to offset the rising price of producing dry dog food.
Cheap grain fillers are in danger of becoming contaminated due to the fact that hazardous chemicals are used on them in the growing and storage process. This can make your dog very sick or even worse. Also, a number of veterinarians have called attention to the fact that soy ingredients, which make up a large quantity of fillers, may cause dangerous allergic reactions in dogs. These can include everything from minor sneezing or hives to extremes like shortness of breath or severe shock.
We can greatly enhance the nutritional benefits in the food we feed our dogs by using higher a quality food. In order to provide the highest level of nutrition when feeding a dog, we must always buy dog food that contains the appropriate quantities of protein, fiber, fat and carbohydrates. You can learn the correct amounts at the AAFCO's site and then us this knowledge to read the labels on the bags. Always beware of generic brands and foods priced low for quantity purchases They are probably full of disguised fillers.
Beware, many dog food manufacturers pay their advertising agencies very high fees to lure you into purchasing their products. Once you have the knowledge of what the appropriate ingredients and correct amounts needed for your dog's optimal nutrition and know how to read dog food labels, you can provide your dog with the best diet to protect him or her from illness or even worse.
To avoid fillers, look at the ingredients on your pet food. While some companies may list real meat as the number one ingredient in dry dog food, they may actually have more cheap fillers hidden in it, thus reducing the ratio of quality ingredients to useless ones. Stay vigilant and learn what's actually in the food you're feeding your dog. Remember, it can be very costly to buy cheap dog food!
Do you know what you're putting in your dog's dish everyday?
Most dogs will eat almost anything that's put in front of them and, just like humans, they are what they eat.
Many now suffer from what are preventable diseases...did you know that 46% of all dogs die of cancer, 40% are overweight and scores more suffer everyday from allergies, ear infections, skin conditions, dental problems and other ailments...
When you learn the awful reality about the toxic ingredients in some commercial dog foods it will shock and sicken you and, once you know the reality of the health benefits in feeding a dog a homemade diet, you'll want to make an immediate change. If you stop feeding only commercial dog foods to your dog on a daily basis, slowly introduce fresh meats and vegetables and then stop commercial dog foods completely, you'll save him or her from needless suffering and save yourself a mountain of veterinarian bills, as well.
Now, here are some of the realities about some commercial dog foods and also some of the benefits of feeding a dog a healthy homemade diet...
1. Reality: Do you know that some commercial dog food is really dog "junk" food? If burgers, fried chicken, french fries, etc., eaten as a steady diet, can cause serious health issues in humans, what does dog "junk" food" do for dogs? Generally speaking, a canine's genetic makeup and nutritional requirements resembles that of humans. If we're damaging our own health by eating "junk food", what can be happening to our dogs when we feed them the equivalent, "junk" commercial dog food?
2. Reality: Do you know that the foods we humans eat are also a healthy choice for our dogs? Whatever else you may have heard, the same wholesome, nutritious foods we eat are a terrific choice for dogs. However, there are certain differences between human and canine nutritional requirements so you'll need to learn what they are if you want to feed your dog a healthy diet.
3. Reality: Do you know that if your vet sells dog food it also may not be such a great choice? Just like our own medical doctors, veterinarians aren't taught too much about nutrition in school. Most of what they learn is taught to them by the representatives of the pet food companies such as, on staff company vets, sales reps (do you think maybe they promote their own products?) or else through various studies, articles, and seminars. It's not very likely that your vet knows the difference between good and bad food if they personally haven't studied about it or tried raw or homemade diets themselves.
What may be happening is he or she is operating on obsolete data or"old wives tales". Some vets even profit from selling a certain brand of dog food and that may very well prejudice them against other brands or other forms of feeding a dog, such as home cooked dog food.
4. Reality: Do you know that some processed commercial dog foods can actually be hazardous to your dog's health and can cause numerous medical issues? It's legal for dog food companies to include "4D Meat" ("Dead, Dying, Diseased and Disabled" ranch or farm animals). In addition, they often add road kill (dead raccoons, possum and other animals killed by cars, trucks or disease), dogs and cats euthanized by vets, picked up by animal control workers and brought to dog food companies' renders for processing, powdered mill factory floor dust (they call it"grain") and what they call "corn" (usually ground left over husks) that's contaminated with very high amounts of pesticides. What some pet food manufacturers are putting into dog food and disguising as "By-Products" is borderline criminal!
It all makes a recipe of the worst possible mixture of ingredients we could ever feed to our dogs. And yet, millions of us do so, unknowingly! Remember...the cheaper the food...the cheaper the ingredients...the worse the nutrition...the more harmful, even deadly it an be! Make sure you know what's in the food, whenever you're feeding a dog! Read all about commercial dog food in depth in my future articles.
Please note: not "all" commercial dog foods are made from poor quality ingredients and cheap byproducts. Dog food manufacturers and the ingredients they use differ greatly. My goal in these articles is to provide you with as much information possible, so you can make your own "informed" decisions about what is or is not good food for your dog. I'll get into much greater detail about different "quality" dog food producers, ingredients and how to read dog food labels in future articles...so come back often.
5. Reality: Do you know it's a mistake to think that kibble cleans dog's teeth? This myth was circulated a while ago by a study that implied kibble "may" be better than canned dog food (not "is" better) for cleaning teeth. What must it be saying to us that almost every dog over the age of three that has dental disease eats kibble! Not hard to figure that one out!
6. Reality: Do you know that the term "Complete and Balanced"(used by some commercial dog food companies to advertise their products) does not really mean "Optimum". There are significant differences: food meeting only the "assumed" requirements for the health of an average dog can be advertised as "Complete and Balanced". When these foods are included in feeding trials, they are often only tested for things like lead and others are tested only on a small number of dogs for a very short time.
It's certain that adequate nutrients, necessary for our dog's wellness, will not be included in these products. It certainly is better than "not" complete and balanced at all, but only "optimal" levels of balanced nutrition are what we should be looking for. We'll be providing you with details of what optimal balanced nutrition is in a later article.
Sometimes a fast glance at the label can tell you whether the dog food is made of quality ingredients or not, in others it takes more knowledge about each of the ingredients to be able to tell whether that food is better. Of course every manufacturer is going to state that they are using only the very best ingredients. However, our constitutional right to freedom of speech does not require such statements to be truthful.
Be sure you know what's in the food you're feeding a dog every day! We'll write more on this later...
7. Reality: Do you know that if you're feeding a dog the same thing every day you're limiting it's access to good nutrition? Dog's, just like us, need a variety of food. Can you imagine eating ground corn husks, rancid fat and only chicken wing skin and bones (no Meat) with some cheap vitamins and minerals thrown in, every single day for your entire life?
It is true that some dogs can have an initial sensitivity when introduced to certain new foods. So, feeding a dog a variety of foods can lead to stomach issues, but it's only because they've been lacking balanced nutrition in their diet. As soon as they're given a well balanced diet, their digestive system gets restored. They can then eat a variety of foods at each meal without any problem, just as we do.
Be sure you introduce different foods in small amounts so that your dog's stomach has time to adjust to the changes.
8. Reality: Do you know that dry dog food is not better than canned dog food? Think about it...the food in a can is kept fresh by the very means of canning it. Now consider the amount of preservatives dry dog foods need after they are opened, in order to stay "fresh" indefinitely in the original bag, or whatever container you use for storage, or when they get left out all day so your dog can self-feed. Dry foods start out cooked and then are subjected to a high level of heat, which destroys nutrients...canned foods are canned fresh and therefore, retain more nutrients (although they're really not completely balanced).
Fresh food is "always" the best choice, either fed raw or cooked...next would be frozen or dehydrated and then freeze dried foods, all available at better pet stores.
9. Reality: Do you know that some of the ingredients used to make commercial dog food and certain common, everyday foods can be toxic to dogs, even kill them! Cooked bones and rawhide chews can cause major internal issues that require surgery. Wheat-based treats can induce allergies. Onions, grapes, raisins, chocolate, Xylia (the artificial sweetener) and other foods can be hazardous and should never be given to dogs.
To learn more about what's really in commercial dog food and the other items that are toxic to dogs, come back often and read our future articles where we'll give you detailed information.
10. Reality: Do you know that corn can kill dogs? Most dry dog food is loaded with this cheap filler and it's not the same corn we eat...it's the cheap remnants that's fed to cattle...even corn meal dust, swept up from the mill floor, is allowed to be used in dog food! Also, if this corn had been found unfit for human consumption due to pesticide content, then there's actually no limit for pesticide contamination in pet foods. Additionally, corn is very high in calories and therefore, very fattening...so, is it any wonder many dogs are overweight and suffer from diabetes.
So, now you know some of the awful realities about commercial dog food. Once you decide to improve your dog's diet and stop feeding that "junk" food, you can greatly improve his or her health and longevity...plus, you'll save yourself a lot of money!
All it takes is a little bit of knowledge and the desire to provide your dog with the vitality and long life it so richly deserves. We'll do our best to supply the knowledge...you just need to supply the desire.
Good grooming habits are essential to the health and comfort of your dog. Grooming requires time and effort, but setting a consistent schedule can make it easier for you and will make your dog’s life happier.
The Two Keys to Great Grooming
No matter what age, size, sex or type of dog you have, you can make grooming a pleasant part of your dog’s life if you:
1. Teach your dog to associate grooming with things she loves. 2. Take it slow and easy.
Associate Grooming with Great Rewards
Many dogs find grooming unpleasant—and who can blame them? It can involve hair pulling, uncomfortable restraint, getting soaked with water (which some dogs dislike), and other kinds of poking and prodding. However, you can help your dog learn to tolerate—and maybe even enjoy—grooming.
If your dog learns that things like brushing, bathing, ear cleaning and nail trimming reliably predict wonderful stuff for her—like special treats, brand-new chew toys, the start of a favorite game, a walk in the park or dinnertime—she’ll soon learn to love “spa time.” So whenever you groom your dog, be sure to immediately follow the activity with things she loves. For example, if you’re trimming your dog’s nails, clip a nail and then feed your dog a delicious treat. Clip another nail or two and feed another treat. With repetition and a little time, your dog will probably decide that getting her nails done is fun, not frightening.
Take It Slow and Easy
If your dog isn’t used to getting inspected, restrained, handled, brushed and thoroughly cleaned on a regular basis, the last thing you want to do is frighten and overwhelm her when you start teaching her to tolerate grooming. Take time to slowly introduce new tools, like brushes and clippers, as well as new sensations. For example, before giving your dog a bath, spend a few days just taking her into the bathroom, putting her in the tub, giving her a few tasty treats and then taking her out again. When introducing a brush, start with just a few strokes. If you haven’t clipped your dog’s nails before, try clipping only a nail or two the first time you use the clippers.
It will also help to pay attention to your own voice and body language. When it’s grooming time, approach your dog calmly and speak in quiet, soothing tones. If you want your dog to relax while you’re grooming her, you want to be relaxed, too.
If you have a dog who barks excessively, you are probably at your wits end. Although you love your pooch, you don't necessarily love his excessive barking. Well, don't worry, help is available. I used to have a barker too (he is now reformed) and will now provide you with some tips to stop dog barking once and for all. So, without further adieu, let's get started.
First, to get your dog to stop barking, you must understand why dogs bark. Dogs bark for many reasons. Some bark due to their innate characteristics and others bark for specific reasons. For instance, small breeds like Yorkies and Maltese typically bark because they love to bark. Whereas Doberman and German Shepherds are guard specific barkers and tend to bark only when they perceive a threat. And, sporting breeds like Bloodhounds bark when they smell quarry.
However, putting breed specifics aside, there are some circumstances where just about any species will bark. This is when:
-Your dog views other animals
-Your dog senses that someone is near or wrong
-Your dog is lonesome
-Your dog is hungry or thirsty
-Your dog wants to play
-Your dog needs to go relieve himself
If your dog is barking for the above reasons, it really isn't realistic to try and stop them because he is trying to communicate a want or need. In these instances, you'd be better to satisfy his need than to insist that he stop trying to communicate.
Now if you find that your isn't barking for any of these reasons, he may be trying to bully you into doing what he wants you to do. For instance, consider Max. Max's owner, Mary, is lying down quietly reading a book. Well, her dog, Max, decides it is now time to play. He picks up his ball and drops it in Mary's lap. She ignores him. After a while Max nudges Mary's hand and then starts barking loudly. When Mary tells him to quiet down, he barks again and then nips her. As you might guess, in this instance, Mary has a big problem. Max thinks he is the boss and is trying to control Mary with his barking and nipping.
If you have a dog that is trying to control you, you likely have a respect issue at hand. Your dog mistakenly believes that he is the boss and is barking to control your actions. In this instance, you'll have to put your dog in his place to stop his barking.
With your actions you'll have to demonstrate that you are the "leader of the pack" and that you will not be commanded to do as she wishes. Once your dog learns this, he will not only respect your authority but will also become better behaved. Then, the next time, you tell him to be quiet or stop barking, he'll listen and obey.
Here are some additional tips for dealing with dominance barking:
1. You must prove to your dog that you are the boss and can't be easily manipulated. You must ignore his behavior by completely turning away when he barks for dominance. Instead, you must give him the "cold shoulder" when he acts in that annoying manner. By doing this, you may notice that his annoying barking behavior gets worse before it gets better. But don't give in. Just keep right on ignoring him and eventually he'll stop barking excessively. Then, when he is finally quiet, you can give him attention.
2. Another option is to let him bark for a while and if he can't calm down, you can reach out and clasp his muzzle firmly but gently. If he tries to back away, place your other hand on his collar for maximum control. Then, hold onto the muzzle until he ceases his excitement and stops barking. Once he stops, this proves that he accepts your authority as the leader of the pack.
In conclusion, dogs bark for different reasons and it is up to you to figure out why he is barking and try to alleviate the problem. This can be done by satisfying his basic needs (for food, companionship, etc). In cases where he is barking to display dominance, you must prove that you're the "leader of the pack". By doing this, you can stop your dog's barking. Good luck, you can do it!
By Kristiana Jones
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com
Whether we like it or not, dogs, not unlike children, have an inherent need to express themselves vocally! Short of gagging them (definitely not recommended!), there are only so many different ways to stop your dog barking. Before attempting to deal with the problem, one really needs to understand the underlying reasons for the barking, and also understand what types of barking one can and should control.
What Causes Dog Barking
Dog barking may occur for a variety of reasons - sometimes when they are excited, other times when they feel threatened or annoyed. They may bark if they are scared, happy to see you or feeling unwell.
Generally speaking, barking fits into one of the following categories:
* Barking to outline its Territory
* Barking to Alarm its owners of an intruder or impending danger
* Barking to get attention
* Barking simply to say "hello"
* Barking out of frustration or boredom
* Barking as a sort of obsessive / compulsive disorder
* Barking in an effort to let you know they are injured or unwell
* Barking because they feel threatened
Barking is such an integral part of who your dog is, that getting your dog to stop barking completely is going to be just about impossible. However, that's not to say that you can't control your dog's barking to a large degree.
Methods to Stop Dog Barking
As for any undesirable behavior, hitting your dog or yelling, is simply unnecessary and counter-productive. First, determine why your dog is barking and judge whether there is a good reason for the barking or not. Usually, the barking is not warranted. Make a mental note of when exactly, your dog starts barking? Is there something in particular that your dog is barking at? Is there a specific trigger that starts your dog barking? For example, your dog may bark Monday thru Friday but not on weekends, it may bark early in the morning and mid afternoon - a possible scenario here may be that your dog is merely saying hello to children on their way to or from school. Alternatively, your dog may be telling the same children that this is his territory and he is barking to warn them not to intrude.
Whether protecting his territory or attempting to alarm his owner of a possible threat, your dog will not understand why he is being punished if you hit him or yell at him to stop barking. In fact, any form of negative reinforcement, particularly in relation to territorial barking, may well lead to aggressive behavior from your dog down the track. You may reduce the barking but the territorial instincts will still be there.
A much better solution would be to change the dynamics of your dogs role within the household. Start by taking control and show your dog that you are the alpha dog, the leader of the pack, and that you are the protector of the realm. This way you will reduce your dogs territorial urge to protect all the time. If he sees that you are in charge, he will be more settled and defer to you to decide what is a threat and what is not. An additional solution can be to remove your dog's ability to "see" anything that may trigger his territorial urge to bark. For instance, close your blinds to stop him catching sight of kids or the postman, replace fencing he can see through with non-see through fencing, maybe even block access to windows facing the street.
How to Stop Barking Dogs Suffering From Anxiety
Way more dogs suffer from anxiety than most people realize. The irony of this is that barking due to dog anxiety often occurs as a direct result of the owner giving the dog loads of attention when leaving or arriving home. The dog learns to associate the attention with the comings and goings of his owner and so the dog remains in a highly excitable state during the period of separation. Your dog wants to reach you and can't control his agitation, so he barks and barks.... and barks! Until you come home! Then what happens??? His owner comes home and gives him lots of attention, trying to reassure the dog that all is well. Big mistake! This only serves to reinforce this behavior. Solution: when preparing to go out, simply ignore your dog for the last 10-15 minutes before departure and do not acknowledge the dog at all as you leave. Upon arriving home, do the same - do not give your dog any attention at all for the first 10-15 minutes. In no time at all, you will find that your dogs barking problem will be greatly diminished.
One final tip, teach your dog how and when to speak.... and when to be quiet. Your dog can easily learn to control his own barking when it is not necessary, if only you take the time to teach him some simple commands. Clicker dog training is one particularly useful method to train your dog to "speak" and be "quiet". After all, you still want your dog to alert you if there is a genuine danger present.
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